Actichem

Cosmetic Active Ingredients

Biocellact Chamomilla BD

by Filed Under: Skin Leave a Comment

Biocellact Chamomilla BD is an extract of chamomile flowers. It was one of 8 finalists for Best Ingredients Award at Innovation Zone, In-Cosmetics 2011 at Milan, Italy.

chamomile

Background:

The differentiation of keratinocytes from Transit-Amplifying (TA) stem cells is the target of Biocellact Chamomilla BD. How is this done?

The normal process of the production of keratinocytes is explained in the diagram below:

IMG_0917

  1. The first TA-stem cell is born from stem cell or mother cell.
  2. TA-stem cells proliferate.
  3. Proliferated TA-stem cells are differentiated into normal keratinocytes. Keratinocytes are not proliferated.

The Effect of Environmental Stress on TA-Stem Cell and Resulting Skin Condition:

Due to environmental stresses that affect the skin and its functions, the proliferation of TA-stem cells decrease, more aged/stressed TA-stem cells are produced instead. This, in turn, causes lesser supply of differentiated keratinocytes. What do these all mean? There will be a delay of cell turnover in the skin resulting in dryness and wrinkles.

The protection of TA-stem cells from aging and stress is the function of Biocellact Chamomilla BD.

Activity:

  • Longevity effect on TA-stem cells: Based on studies conducted by Ichimaru, Biocellact Chamomilla BD prolongs the life span of TA-stem cells by about 20%.
  • Anti-aging/anti-stress effect on TA-stem cells: Biocellact Chamomilla BD keeps TA-stem cells in vital condition.

Bio-antiage

by Filed Under: Hair, Skin

Bio-antiage is a complex of 3 kinds of plants, namely, Pueraria Lobata Ohwi, Aloe Barbadensis Miller, and Chlorella Vulgaris Chick; a product of Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan.

Background

pueraria lobataThe extract of Pueraria Lobata Ohwi has been known to have antifebrile [efficacious against fever; antipyretic] and anticramp properties. It contains isoflavones which exhibit a property like that of female hormones.

Fresh aloe extract is used to treat sunburns; its soothing effect on skin promotes healing. It has also been aloe veraknown to stimulate healthy hair growth and is effective against acne.

Chlorella is a green spherical single-celled freshwater micro-algae and has been on earth for over 2.5 chlorellabillion years. It is mainly composed of proteins and amino acids, vitamins and minerals. It is rich in beta-carotene and unsaturated fatty acids. It has been known to possess protective and healing properties.

Activity:

  • skin whitening activity
  • moisturizing effect
  • skin cells proliferation

In melanin formation inhibition tests using B16 melanoma cells, Bio-antiage exhibited a stronger melanin inhibitory effect than placenta extract.

Ichimaru and Ajinomoto Joint Technical Seminar

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Actichem, together with its two major Japanese suppliers, Ichimaru Pharcos and Ajinomoto, sponsored a technical seminar at the ballroom of the plush Richmonde Hotel in Eastwood City on Tuesday, July 2. It was a whole-day affair for this first-time ever joint technical seminar. Both companies, Ichimaru and Ajinomoto, came fully armed ready to storm the function room with a deluge of the latest technical info on cosmetic active ingredients and power formulations for skin, hair, and personal care.

ICHIMARU’S PRESENTATION

2013-07-02 08.56.08

Ichimaru opened the seminar with their topic: The Perfect Whitening and went on to discuss in detail the biosynthesis of melanin, highlighting the three important stages where melanin synthesis can be controlled: dermis, epidermis, and stratum corneum. (It couldn’t get more exciting than this!). With their presentation packed with technical information of all things whitening, including the 5-step strategy (or approach) to recover the skin from pigmentation, everyone got their fill of premium whitening technology.

Ichimaru proceeded to discuss other fine skin whitening agents, their mechanisms of activity, and unparalleled benefits:

CLAIRBLANCHE

ALPINIA WHITE

CLAIRJU

But the technical inundation didn’t end there. Towards the end of their presentation, Ichimaru unveiled their latest skin whitening offering: ABSORAGE and MANDARINCLEAR – emphasizing their main function which is to promote clarity, luminosity, and brightness in the stratum corneum level, with CUREPASSION working in the dermis level.

Ichimaru’s presentation by Mr. Norihisa Kawai.

Ichimaru’s presentation by Mr. Norihisa Kawai.

AJINOMOTO PRESENTATION

Ajinomoto’s presentation by Ms. Sok Koon.

Ajinomoto’s presentation by Ms. Sok Koon.

Ajinomoto was in no way to be left behind. Here, their presentation is outlined as follows:

Part 1:

  1. Cost-effective anionic surfactant for skin cleansing: presenting AMILITE GCK-12H  & Amisoft ECS-22SB
  2. Ajidew NL-50 in cleansing formulations
  3. Video presentation: How to Make Foam (Chime in: I know this information to be very important as well as exciting).
Part 2: Lecture
  1. Amisoft HS-11P as Novel Emulsifier
  2. Gelatinization Agent
  3. Video presentation: How to Produce Solid Perfume and How to Make BB (blemish balm) cream – a highly concealing BB-type foundation which also provides UV protection. The smooth oil gel turns into powder on the skin, leaving non-oily silky soft feel. (Chime in: This is definitely a novel product that could bring raves in the Cosmetics Industry).
Part 3: Evaluation Session: Commercial Products & ACAC Formulations
1.       Soap-based body wash, SLES-free cleanser, BB balm, solid perfume,  make-up remover
Ms. Sok Koon busily distributing product samples of ACAC formulations for sensory evaluation and answering questions.

Ms. Sok Koon busily distributing product samples of ACAC formulations for sensory evaluation and answering questions.

Ajinomoto, the world’s number one producer of amino acid-based surfactants, knows its craft beyond doubt. Their homegrown formulations for skin cleansers, hair care, and bath products are proven and tested to be stable and highly functional. One exciting part of their presentation was the actual evaluation of product samples. Here, the participants got a first-hand feel of the formulations discussed.

Participants, who work mostly in research and development, were at their element – evaluating the product samples.

Ajinomoto had certainly presented exciting and innovative formulations developed by ACAC (Ajitrade Cosmetic Application Center) which are sure to make the R&D staff of our clients busy for the months ahead.
Actichem président Felix Peru addresses thé guests.

Actichem président Felix Peru addresses thé guests.

Another highlight of the seminar was the raffle draw; at stake was 32GB 5G iPod. And the winner is (drum roll 😀 ) ——

Ichimaru awarding the iPod to Ms. Marissa Marable of Ysa Skin Care.

Ichimaru awarding the iPod to Ms. Marissa Marable of Ysa Skin Care.

On behalf of Actichem Marketing Corporation, I would like to express our heartfelt gratitude to all who participated. A total of 37 attendees from different cosmetic manufacturing companies graced the event. We thank also our suppliers who co-sponsored the seminar, Ichimaru and Ajinomoto; to the presenters, Mr. Norihisa Kawai, Marketing & Advertising Manager, Ichimaru, and Mr. Yuji Usui, Chief, Foreign Trade Div., Ichimaru; Ms. Ooi Sok Koon, Product Manager, Ajinomoto, and Mr. Keitaro Saito, Sales & Marketing Manager, Ajinomoto – thank you and more power to all of you!

(For those who had missed the technical seminar, please contact Actichem or the technical rep assigned to you to request a copy of the technical presentation).

PrincessCare

by Filed Under: Skin Leave a Comment

PrincessCare is an extract of the geranium plant, a product of Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan.

geranium

Background:

Studies performed by Ichimaru showed that Tryptase protein stimulates the degradation of the skin’s extracellular matrix.  In a skin that is exposed to UV light, the amount of Tyrptase markedly increases resulting to skin photo aging. It was further clarified that Tryptase specifically destroys type IV collagen. Type IV collagen makes up the major matrix of the skin basement membrane. Thus, it is considered that one of the major causes of skin photo aging is the increased activity of Tryptase near the basement membrane region.

A Tryptase inhibitor, therefore, can be expected to prevent the skin from photo aging by protecting the basement membrane. PrincessCare, an extract of Geranium Robertianum L., was found to have excellent inhibitory effect on Tryptase.

Skin benefits:

  • Improvement of skin elasticity
  • Reduction of wrinkles
  • Skin moisturization
  • Whitening activity

Clairju {The Melanin Diet Theory}

by Filed Under: Skin Leave a Comment

Clairju is an extract of the fruit of Prunus domestica (prunes).  The name is coined from the French word “claire” which means clear and “jus” which means juice of a fruit. The prune fruit contains compounds such as beta-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lutein, neochlogenic acid, and vitamins and minerals such as Vit. A, C, E and B complex. It is a product of Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan.

prunes

Background:

Most skin whitening agents target the inhibition of melanin synthesis through the enzyme tyrosinase. For this reason, these whitening agents are often called “tyrosinase inhibitors.” But in this novel “melanin diet” theory, it argues that melanin is synthesized because the skin needs it for protection against the adverse effects of sunlight.

On the other hand, the phagocytotic action of keratinocytes consume synthesized melanin from the neighboring melanocytes. Because of this action, keratinocytes themselves turn dark (black).

Clairju works to “curb” the phagocytotic appetite of keratinocytes to eat up synthesized melanin which are contained in melanosomes. Technically, this means the inhibition of uptake of melanosomes into the keratinocytes.

Back in the late ’90s when researchers and developers of whitening agents scrambled to come up with an effective skin whitening agent, studies were conducted and possibilities were looked into in inhibiting the different stages of the synthesis of melanin. One possibility then that they were looking into was the inhibition of the uptake of melanosomes into the keratinocytes. Back in those days, this was not yet a reality, but with the development of Clairju, that vision is now realized.

Clairju can work in conjunction with other whitening agents or tyrosinase inhibitors to produce a highly effective whitening product.

Activity:

  • Inhibition of uptake of melanosomes
  • Whitening effect
  • Moisturizing Effect
  • Improvement of skin texture

Dermaveil

by Filed Under: Skin Leave a Comment

Dermaveil is an extract of the bark of the white willow tree from the Salix family Salicaceous. It is a product of Ichimau Pharcos of Japan.

white willow tree bark

Background:

The main components of the bark of the white willow are phenolic glycosides (such as salicin, salicortin, acetyl salicin, picein, etc.), catechins, and flavonoids. Salicin is a phenolic glycoside contained in willows and aspens in large quantities. It is known as a material that is related to acetyl salicylic acid, the most important discovery in the history of medicine.

Salicin, which is one of the main active substances in Dermaveil, is believed to be first transformed into Salicyl Alcohol (Saligenin) and then, into Salicylic Acid in the skin. Salicylic Acid is commonly used as a skin peeling agent. If Salicin is gradually transformed into Salicylic Acid in the skin, it is expected to perform a mild peeling activity.

Dermaveil’s main activity is the improvement of skin roughness. Used by Shiseido and Kanebo, both high-end Japanese cosmetic brands which are famous worldwide.

Biobenefity

by Filed Under: Skin 1 Comment

Biobenefity is an extract from the leaves of artichoke plant, a product of Icjimaru Pharcos of Japan.

artichoke

Background:

The human body has genetic information of about 22,000 genes. The gene functions by supplying the appropriate amount of information wherever and whenever the information is needed. When the information is not useful, the gene is locked to prevent its activity. But there is a key that unlocks the gene and it is called “transcriptional factor”. One of these representative factors is “Nuclear Factorkappa B” or NF-kB. In their studies, Ichimaru made a forecast that the inhibition of NF-kB has a direct effect in protecting the skin from photo damage.

Tests on the extract of the artichoke plant produced some interesting discoveries. They found out that cynaropicrin, an active substance in artichoke extract, inhibits NF-kB. Furthermore, its NF-kB inhibitory activity is quite significant.

Biobenefity was developed as a functional ingredient for skin care to slow down the signs of aging by inhibiting the activity of NF-κB.

Activity:

  • Inhibitory effect on NF-kB hyper-transcription
  • Inhibitory effect on epidermal melanocyte proliferation
  • Inhibitory effect on melanin production
  • Whitening effect
  • Improvement of skin elasticity
  • Pore minimization

Mandarinclear

by Filed Under: Skin Leave a Comment

Among cosmetic scientists and practitioners, no one will dispute the function and efficacy of Vitamin C in skin care. It has been around in many forms: powder (like the Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate), liquid extracts, and supplements. In skin clinics in recent years, some had even used freshly-extracted citrus fruits such as orange and lime to use for skin lightening. The benefits of Vitamin C have long been established in cosmetics and its performance and popularity have not diminished through the years. There has been a steady stream of new and innovative natural ingredients in the past decade but ascorbic acid remains strong and has not lost its place in skin care.

mandarin orange

In this light, I introduce to you one of Ichimaru’s latest natural cosmetic ingredients – Mandarinclear. Mandarinclear is an extract of the rind of mandarin orange or ponkan, a product of Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan.

Background:

  • Desmoplakin

Dull skin cannot reflect light due to gap between the skin cells, roughness, and lack of tension [elasticity] among the cells. When these problems are fixed though, skin can reflect light making it luminous and radiant. Based on both in vitro and in vivo tests, Mandarinclear works to strengthen desmoplakin, a protein linking the inner and outer side of cells and aids in balanced distribution of keratin filament in the epidermis. Desmoplakin binds desmosome and keratin to make cells strong and elastic. Mandarinclear enhances the work of desmoplakin.

  • Caspase-14

Caspase-14 is a protein involved in the promotion of NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) and aggregation and flexibility of keratin. Caspase-14 improves skin elasticity with its work on keratin. Mandarinclear induces the proliferation and performance of Caspase-14. 

Skin Benefits:

  • Luminosity or transparency
  • Radiancy: skin brightness and glow
  • Clarity
  • Elasticity

Cureberry

by Filed Under: Skin Leave a Comment

Activity:
  • Promotes dermal fibroblast proliferation.
  • Promotes Hyaluronic Acid production.
  • Promotes Glutathione production.
  • SOD-like activity (antioxidant activity)
  • Inhibitory effect on collagenase activity (protects skin collagen)
  • Inhibitory effect on elastase activity (protects skin elastin)
  • Inhibitory effect on histamine release (anti-inflammatory activity)
  • Inhibitory effect on B16 melanoma cell (skin whitening activity)
  • Inhibitory effect on lipase activity (antioxidant activity)

Refined Honey

by Filed Under: Hair, Skin Leave a Comment

Since ancient times, honey has been consumed for its nutritional and medicinal benefits. It was also widely used as a natural remedy for treating wounds because of its healing properties owing largely to its anti-bacterial activity. Just recently, I read a historical novel set in the Medieval times (yes, I read such books). For the first time, I learned about the use of honey in treating burns and fending off infection. Also, there was an article I read recently of the use of honey (combined with flour) in removing lipomas naturally and safely.

honey

Honey is mostly composed of sugars, water, acids, proteins, amino acids, and minerals. Because of its complex composition, honey exhibits many interesting properties. These same properties are now being fully utilized in skin and hair care applications.

Honey is a natural moisturizer and softener. When applied to the skin, it imparts softness and smoothness with a refreshing feel. The same moisturizing and softening properties also find their use in hair conditioners, imparting silkiness to hair and in hair treatments as these help prevent hair fall and strengthen hair follicles.

As mentioned above, honey also possesses antimicrobial as well as wound-healing properties. In skin care applications, these promote the skin’s ability to rejuvenate and replenish damaged or depleted skin, leaving it feeling silky soft and supple. In hair care, this anti-bacterial property works to prevent scalp infections, promoting healthy hair growth.

Because of its high viscosity, honey is a great vehicle for facial and body scrubs. It is easily rinsed off with water without leaving a greasy feel. Honey should be a staple in spa products.

Applications:

  • Skin care: anti-aging, sun care, facial and body scrubs
  • Hair care: shampoos, conditioners, hair treatments, tonics, leave-on conditioners
References:
  1. Honey: its medicinal property and antibacterial activity; PMC, US National Library of Medicine, National Institutes of Health
  2. Honey Composition and Properties by By J. W. White, Jr. and Landis W. Doner; Bee Source
  3. Favorite Tips on Natural Skin Care With Honey; Benefits of Honey
  4. 6 Amazing Benefits Of Honey For Hair Growth; Stylecraze

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